For a time. I rest in the grace of the world, and am free. A poem by Wendell Berry.
In this mini video we hang out with Malcolm Johnson for a couple surfs. He is an accomplished Canadian writer and devoted surfer. Rides longboards short boards what ever suites the moment. Long board being his board of choice for this days small waves.
The ocean to most surfers is a place to go and recharge the batteries. Rest in the grace of the world, have fun and be free.